Mokkatam Village a/k/a Garbage City in Cairo

I sat down to write a post about the amazing Cave Church I visited in Cairo, when I began instead reading up on the people who live in the village that is home to the church. Soon it became clear that an entire post should be dedicated to what little I know about these people […]

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A Coptic Engagement Party in Cairo

The drive from Dahab is Cairo is epic, so you have to have a good reason before going on this journey. Ten hours overland, through barren, flat desert of the Sinai, with slow-downs at the many checkpoints that help keep travelers safe, down into the Suez Canal by way of the Ahmed Hamdi Tunnel, which […]

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What?! Travel to Cairo?

Say the word Cairo these days and most people think of danger and violence, an off-limits city in a newly forbidden country. In reality, the entire country of Egypt is still safe and travelable, including Cairo. The violence in the city is contained almost entirely downtown, which is home to Tahrir Square, where the majority […]

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The Giza Zoo in Cairo, Egypt – Worth A Visit

I expected to be disturbed by what I saw at the Giza Zoo in Cairo. And I was. But I was also relieved to see that most of its animals seemed to be leading pretty good lives. At the Giza Zoo animals are not kept in the same carefully researched and painstakingly designed conditions as […]

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Women Traveling to Cairo Can Stay Safe with the Single Ladies Travellers Program

Many women who want to travel can’t find anyone willing to join them, so they stay at home. With the world so ripe for exploring, that is a real shame. In October of 2011 the Four Seasons Cairo at the First Residence launched the Single Ladies Travellers Program to make women feel comfortable, safe and […]

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Why I Felt Comfortable Spending Two Nights Inside a Military Zone in Cairo

Note: The area in Cairo that is the subject of this post was an anomaly, as it was directly in the center of the recent protests. The rest of Cairo was its normal wonderfully chaotically calm self. After months of media reports on the Egyptian Revolution and its aftermath, it may seem as if violent […]

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Four Hours in Tahrir Square, Cairo

I had no intention of going into Tahrir Square yesterday. I’d been through the area once before when I visited the Egyptian Museum in October of 2009 during my first trip to Cairo. Back then, long before the January 2011 revolution during which thousands of people were injured and hundreds killed, I hadn’t even realized […]

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Aziz and the Greatest Gift of Travel

9:30 in the morning on my last day in Egypt I walked down Dahab’s main street to climb aboard the van that would take me to the border with Israel, when on my right appeared a very sweet guy named Aziz. Nicknamed Zezo, I’d gotten to know this thin young Egyptian as I’d walked several […]

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City of Madness – Crossing the Street in Cairo

Nighttime has arrived in this city and I am standing on the sidewalk, alone. Locals burst past from all directions, their faces blasé with the familiarity of their surroundings as the busyness of their lives pushes them toward their evening destinations. These people are the vibe of the streets. On this, my first night in […]

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